We now have both core product and accessory videos embedded in our FAQ section. We will be adding videos of new products as well as back filling prior releases. Check them out for tips on installation and use:
A Brite Tank…
1. Cuts carbonation time down significantly with a carb stone, so users can fully carb in under 24 hours. In comparison, the "low and slow" method might take a Home Brewer 5-7 days to fully carbonate in a corny keg. Plus the brewers that try to burst carb at much higher pressures risk carb bite, or a carbonic acid flavor, which is simply over carbonated beer.
2. Allows for proper burst carbing, and head pressure monitoring. Commercial breweries do the same thing, they may set input pressure to their carb stones at 30 PSI, then monitor the head pressure until the desired carb limit is reached, typically 12-13 PSI. Then turn down the CO2 to a reasonable serve pressures.
3. Allows for bulk conditioning/aging. This is seriously underrated, if a 10 gallon home brewer can store and serve their beer all in one vessel, it will age differently, plus you only have one vessel to clean and turn when it’s time to refill!
4. Has a larger center drain instead of a dip tube, so yeast is not drawn into the serving line. Just like a commercial brite tank, the large center drain allows for low velocity pickup, as opposed to a small dip tube in a Corny keg, which is a high velocity pickup. The high velocity of the corny dip tube results in more yeast and sentiment drawn into the draught line.
5. Has a larger bottom surface area for yeast to settle onto. For the volume of beer, corny kegs have a relatively small bottom surface area compared to the Brite Tank. This allows yeast to settle and gather throughout the lower surface area.
6. Can be used as a Firkin/cask ale device. Most home brewers go to a lot of expense for cask ales and firkin kegs, our Brite Tank allows a home brewer to hook up a beer engine, disassemble the PRV seal and use the small opening as the spile.
7. Integrated LCD/Thermowell. For the homebrewer that closely wants to monitor both serve or lager temp, alongside calculating exactly how many volumes of CO2 is going into their beer, a thermowell and thermometer is key! Kegs dont have it!
8. Easier to clean/CIP. CIP has proven to one of the more popular features and purchase decision drivers for our BME Chronical line. We will be introducing a reducer were the end user can utilize their existing equipment investments in CIP on multiple vessels. Plus, cleaning kegs is awful, it’s much easier to throw in some caustics or sanitizers and let the pump and spray ball work their magic!
9. Integrated legs with option for casters. We come across many homebrewers that are not as young as they used to be, and kegs need to be lifted. By enabling the use of casters, it makes material handling throughout a home brewery that much easier, just roll it around!
10. Ability to serve and function externally, through the use of glycol chiller. Kegs can’t function outside of a kegerator or some other sort of refrigeration device. With our optional BME coil and jacket upgrade, the brite tank can be rolled outside and served directly out of without the need for a refrigerator.
11. Ability to transfer beer from your fermenter from the bottom up. Many home brewers are obsessive about oxidation, as well they should be! With kegs, you either have to fill from the dip tube, which is a painfully long process and fraught with other issues, or you risk oxidation. With a Brite Tank, all you need to do is purge the vessel, then fill from the bottom with 1/2" tubing. Transfers take a few minutes.
The Brite Tank does have a exterior sight glass! Furthermore, it will feature electrically etched markings on the exterior of the vessel that allow the user to monitor the amount of beer remaining.
The range on the sight glass for the 10 gallon Brite Tank will be between 3 and 8 gallons.
Yes! In fact, we recently introduced a new 1.5" TC weldless compression fitting accessory which will allow flat lid users to perform pressurized transfers without switching to their domed lid. More specifically, the weldless TC flange allows flat lid users to utilize our existing Pressurized Transfer Fitting, in addition to other TC accessories with their FTSs flat lid.
Here is a list of parts you will require to install and perform a pressurized transfer:
1.5" TC Weldless Compression Fitting
Begin by drilling the 42 mm hole in a previously unoccupied area of your flat lid, use the high speed setting on your drill for the cleanest cut. Once the hole is drilled debur any sharp edges with a household razor blade. Next install the TC Compression fitting from the top of the lid, ensuring the silicone O-ring forms an air tight seal to the top of the lid, and then tighten the locknut from the underside.
Install the 17 mm plug in the previous blow off port, since you will now be using the new compression fitting for both blow-off and pressurized transfers. Keep in mind, If you do not install the plug, there will be no way for pressure to build within the vessel when you go to transfer.
Your FTSs lid is now ready for use. During active fermentation, rig a blow-off by attaching a 1.5" TC Flange to 1/2" hose barb to the 1.5" TC compression fitting (as show in photos below). Then you can run a 1/2" piece of silicone tubing into your blow-off container. You may also use a silicone stopper with an airlock, however, a blow-off is always recommend. Lastly, do not attempt to use the Pressurized Transfer Fitting as a blow off fitting, the 3/8" hose connection can become easily clogged from an overactive fermentation.
When your beer is finished fermenting, and you wish to perform a pressurized transfer. Remove the blow-off fitting from the weldless TC compression fitting, and then install the Pressurized Transfer Fitting. Finally, connect the pressurized transfer fitting to your regulator. Then run a length of tubing from your racking valve to a cleaned, purged, and sanitized keg.
Remember to turn down the pressure on your regulator to 0 before beginning the flow of gas. A quick burst of CO2 in excess of 2.5 PSI can cause damage to your lid clamps. Slowly turn up your gas to roughly 1-2 PSI, and open the racking valve to begin the transfer.
Each FTSs actual has its own dedicated loop which allows for different temps in each vessel.
The thermostat on the glycol chiller itself maintains the bath temperature at roughly 28 degrees.
To setup the system, all you do is put each FTSs pump in the glycol reservoir, run one length of tubing from the supply barb on the glycol chiller's lid to one side of the chiller coil on the Chronical, and then another length of tubing from the other side of the chiller coil back to return barb on the glycol chiller. You now have a full loop, consisting of a supply feed and a return feed.
During operation, the FTSs controller calls for gycol when the Chronical's temp rises above the set temp. When the bath temp rises above the glycol chiller thermostat's set temp, the compressor will kick on and bring the reservoir temp back down.
That is it, it’s very simple and easy to use.